Beauty of the desert
Beyond my original destination, a large part of this trip is about beauty. That can be in the shape of a classic that old Volkswagen Microbus or the vastness of the loneliness and the searing heat.
Finding the beauty in the desert is less about getting used to it or having it become a background. It’s more of an acceptance of it and a connection with it. Everything may not excite and astound me as much as the first time I saw it. But it does in different ways, different experiences and unusual adventures. I felt a really great positive influence from the environment. The hills, the shrubs, trees and mountains. So many different colors of rock, ground, gravel, and anything else they can throw at you.
“I am officially in the middle of nowhere. There is nothing but sagebrush and horizon in every single direction. It is both incredibly beautiful and slightly terrifying.“
There is an incredible sense of timelessness out here. The mountains look exactly the same as they did a thousand years ago, and probably how they’ll look a thousand years from now. There’s a strange comfort in how completely isolated it is out here. No service, no traffic, just the open road and the sound of the wind.
Some other amazing things I encountered:

- My first night I heard an owl hooting.
- I am genuinely surprised by how much life there actually is out here if you keep your eyes peeled. I just saw a hawk resting on a fence post scanning the brush.
- A massive canyon opening up to my right side. The rock layers are perfectly defined in shades of red, orange, and deep brown. It looks like a miniature Grand Canyon right along the route.
- A salt flat that stretches out for miles, completely flat and white, reflecting the sun like a sheet of ice.
- There are these huge Joshua trees scattered all over the landscape here. They have incredibly bizarre, twisted branches reaching up. It feels like driving through a Dr. Seuss book.
- Woke up early to catch the sunrise over the basin. The colors shifting across the rocks from deep purple to bright gold—absolutely worth waking up early for.
- The mountain directly ahead of me is massive. It looks like it has snow on top, which seems crazy given the temperature down here. Must be Wheeler Peak.

Loneliest road in America
“The loneliest road in America, Highway 50. Here we go.”
In a 1986 Life magazine article, a writer branded it “The Loneliest Road in America” due to its extreme isolation, vast stretches of empty desert, mountain passes, and a severe lack of gas stations or civilization for over 100 miles. The article infamously warned readers that there were “no points of interest” and advised travelers to bring survival skills.
In planning the trip I had already sketched out following that path, but once I read about it’s legend, I was all in. With today’s modern conveniences like air conditioning, GPS, and door dash (I hear they’re investing in deserts soon) we don’t need any of those survival skills. Honestly, you don’t really need the GPS, because it’s a straight line with few offshoots. It’s so lonely the adopt-a-highway signs are often very blank.
So far the loneliest road has not been that lonely. I can usually see a car in front of or behind me or both. I’ve only had to pass, well, actually, I’m not sure I had to pass anybody. The time I was behind the motor home, I pulled off to take the top down after the car wash. (Oh yeah, I got a car wash in the last big city) The other time was following motorcyclists and I figured I was going to have to pass them. But then we hit Eureka and they stopped because they required a road beer apparently.
But now, I am in a 70 mph zone. And I’ve got a guy going 56 miles an hour. I have no idea where he’s going. But if the country rule applies they’re going to pull off soon, eventually. The country rule of course being no matter who it is or what they looks like look like, If they’re on a country highway, they’re not likely long distance drivers and they’re going to turn sooner than later. So if the country rule applies here, this guy’s going to pull off any second. Coming up to another pass though, so I doubt it. But after the pass, I shall swerve him and pass.
The Nevada desert, on a map, is a truly lonely thing. Highway 50 looks almost as boring as it can get. It just doesn’t make sense, but my experience both going west now, and east later, was wonderful. It was nowhere near lonely, for better or worse. And it contained some amazing views and experiences. If I were ever to “go desert” as a family member worried, I think it would be Nevada. But that’s not going to happen any time soon. Maybe after a few more visits..
Continued in Part 2..










































